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When compiling a roll of London’s finest eateries, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. But, situated prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This accolade has left the owners totally astonished.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the proprietor, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their humble place achieving such a high spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at many times that figure.

A Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Community

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary honour.